It is said the best food in France is served in the truck stops where lorry drivers que up for exquisite, 3 star food in unassuming settings - so it is true in Barrington - more Range Rovers than lorries in sight but lots of love in the food from a father and son Chef team that clearly loves their food as much as they admire and enjoy each other.
“Fast Brunch” may seem an oxymoron but sometimes you want great food and not spend half your day “brunching”... so you settle for a few overEZ and some drek in a cup. Not so in Barrington at Leon’s Cafe where Bill and Austin Andrews - father and son Chefs are a talented duo.
My Lobster, Tomato and Asparagus Benedict was so good for the first time ever I didn’t mind sliding the English muffin aside to save on carbs. The thick tomato slice was August perfect. The asparagus thick but not stringy, just the right crunch, brilliantly green. The palate of the plate was eye popping with tomato - rouge, asparagus - verte, Hollandaise - jaune, lobster - rosé and blanc was pure French Impressionist inspiration. The asparagus so often soggily faded to army green was as good as Paris when the stalks first arrive in spring. The poached eggs had fully cooked whites and formed a perfect pouch of warm runny yolk that added to the Hollandaise - made from scratch - not from a packet, properly piquant and just the consistency to coat but not smother. The sauce was better with the lobster than drawn butter could have hoped for. The lobster portion was generous and each bit unctuous and tender. Supple against the teeth and buttery from its Hollandaise bath. The cast aside Nooks and Crannys were temptingly crisp but the rest was so perfect it’s call went unheeded. Eager to return for that experience no doubt adding just the right crunchaliciousness.
Barrington has no idea how good this place is and Providence food lovers should be making plans for a little drive to Borington for exciting dining that rivals anything on the East Side or in the West End (where Billy created Providence’s brunch culture so many years ago) ... no lines for now, but there should be. As the song goes - “Oh Little town of Borington how still we see thee lay”, with no idea of the wonder in your midst...
Well done! - Austin & Bill - Chefs par excellence!